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Mangue Seco, in Bahia: a day in the land of Tieta do Agreste

“And I returned to the course, reviewed my course and got lost in the east… And my soul was reborn with cotton flowers in the heart of the wild…” Make one round trip from Aracaju to Mangue Seco it was very special, because it was a place that I really wanted to visit. It was only to hear these verses in the voice of the wonderful Fafá de Belém that my head immediately thought of Mangue Seco, in Bahia. Yes, my desire came about because of a song.

“Coração do Agreste” was the soundtrack of the telenovela Tieta, recorded on site – where the story of Jorge Amado’s novel originally takes place, which was adapted for the small screen. And some flashes of childhood memory inside me made me never forget the red scarf flying over the dunes to the sound of this classic. I needed to see it all up close! Until my moment arrived!

I was scheduled to travel to Aracaju, in Sergipe, from where I can make a hit and return to Mangue Seco. Although in Bahian territory, it is almost on the Sergipe border. One hell of a ride!

It is difficult to explain the sensations that travel arouses in us. The place, all these references, the music that echoed in my head at every step… It was, without a doubt, one of the most incredible trips I’ve ever taken.

Round trip from Aracaju to Mangue Seco

to do the round trip from Aracaju to Mangue Seco closed with the Nozes Tour. The city is located between the sea and the river. So there are two sections, terrestrial and aquatic. I don’t know if it would be possible on its own.

Through the agency, the van leaves in the morning, picks up each one at their hotel/pousada, and goes to the Piauí River bridge, which divides Sergipe and Bahia. This stretch is pretty quick, I think about 40 minutes at most.

There we disembark at a pier and board a schooner, which crosses the river. It is also a quick journey, around 30 minutes.



The schooner approaching the city and the view of the dunes already gave me goosebumps! And I haven’t seen anything yet!

Getting at dry mangrovethe first stop is the restaurant and inn “Fantasias do Agreste”, support point of the tour, where everyone is welcomed with a complimentary cold cupuaçu or guava juice and, later, where lunch is served.

This is just a quick stop for the bathroom and to explain better about the tour and return times. Another option is to stay in Mangue Seco.


From there, we follow the boardwalk, which is cute, with the river on one side and houses and inns on the other, until we reach the parking lot where the buggy leaves.

Each buggy takes up to four people. I was traveling alone, but I made friends with a couple and we went in three. There are different types of tour, we chose the one that makes five stops. The values ​​are set by the buggy union, a fair way to value this work, which is one of the main sources of income in the place. But payment is still made in the van and each agency makes the transfer.



By buggy through the dunes of Mangue Seco

I don’t even know what to say about this tour. The buggy going up and down the dunes, sand as far as the eye can see, some viewpoints where it was possible to see part of the vegetation or the sea, coconut trees “in the middle of nowhere”, bending in the rhythm of the wind… from the buggy stops. A simple life, friendly people and an indescribable scenery.

Oh yes, and Fafá’s music, even if only inside my head. Because I love soundtrack trips!




It was in the dunes that Tieta herded his goats. And there, too, was the location of one of the most striking scenes of the soap opera, when the character, with the aforementioned red scarf, celebrated her return home after spending many years abroad. “I came back to gather pieces of so much I’ve been through…”

Imagine if I didn’t take my yoke and sensualize it, right? However, to publish I preferred one more, let’s say, well-behaved. 😀

mangrove-seco-bahia-dunasWhat I do know is that no picture I post or anything I say will describe the walk through the dunes of Mangue Seco. Just seeing it up close and living to know. One of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been! It’s so worth it.

Mangue Seco beach

After passing through the dunes, the buggy arrives at the beach and we arrange a time with the driver to pick us up and take us back to the restaurant. The beach is a delight. Large strip of sand, water at the ideal temperature and relatively calm waves.

On the sand, kiosks with tables/chairs and hammocks, with restaurant infrastructure for those who want a snack or even lunch. Delight!



As the departure to Aracaju was scheduled for 15:30, we scheduled the buggy to pick us up at 14:00 on the beach. That way there would be time to get to the restaurant, have lunch – the buffet is free, with options of fish, meat and salads – and even take a walk around the center, which is very small, with dirt floors, just a few houses and shops…


The city, which today is known as the “land of Tieta”, has a bucolic air and a feeling that time has not passed. Some of its constructions became famous for having been scenarios of the soap opera.

Among them are the church, the place where the bar where the character Bafo de Bode drank was, and some houses, the main one being that of Tieta’s father – the lady who now lives there set up a kind of little shop at the entrance, the “Recanto Dona Sula”, and sells souvenirs, ice cream and sweets. Good option for a dessert while waiting for the time to return.



the price of round trip from Aracaju to Mangue Seco was R$130.00 in March 2017 (subject to updates and changes). This price included the van, the schooner and lunch (only drinks aside). The buggy is paid separately according to the type of tour chosen – I took R$ 120.00 (split between three people).

To read by listening (of course, right!):

* Thanks to Nozes Tour for the tour, but I leave Of course, this text only reflects my personal opinion, maintaining my commitment to transparency with readers.

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